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It’s the first beautiful day of spring in Minnesota—a cloudless, 70-degree afternoon in early May on Long Lake.The only thing separating today from those perfect summer days that pass by too quickly in July is the slight chill of the breeze.

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At the back of the patio is Brennan Greene, co-owner and brewmaster of Birch’s, which opened October 2, 2015.

He’s up a ladder inspecting a broken bulb on a string of lights.

With his long tangles of brown hair, and short, wild beard, he looks like Jeremiah Johnson, if Jeremiah Johnson were a camp counselor. Brennan suggests either the golden chocolate ale or the peach sour ale.

I’ve had the former—delicious and a total mind bend—so I opt for the latter, which is bursting with succulent peach flavors followed by a pleasant lip-puckering tartness.

So far, all the positive reviews I’ve heard about this young brewery are proving accurate.

The conversation starts in typical Minnesota fashion: talking about the weather.As we exchange thoughts on how lucky we are to be sitting outside, having a beer by the lake, the tone quickly changes from small talk to something more; I can tell we’ve hit on a topic at the very core of this man.Brennan spent his childhood in Orono, Minnesota, just west of Wayzata on Lake Minnetonka.In his early adolescence he found a source of freedom on the lake.“I got my boat license at 13, and all of a sudden I could go to Wayzata or Excelsior and just be out on my own,” Brennan says.“When you grow up around here, you have to drive everywhere.

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